Daiji Shortcrust Pastry from Pengshui County: The Craftsmanship Extended for Centuries

As the culinary representative of “Pengshui flavor”, Yushan’s shortcrust pastry holds a history of over two hundred years. What is unique with its production technique? How does innovation thrive within this tradition? On February 20, Dai Haojun, who is in charge of Daiji Shortcrust Pastry, took an interview, sharing the story on the inheriting of Yushan’s shortcrust pastry for over one hundred years.

Adhering to Craftsmanship and Being Critical with Procedures

“The rolled shortcrust pastry originated in Yushan’s salt and cinnabar culture. It was created by a master chef at the famous Yan Fuchun’s Restaurant during the Jiaqing Reign (1796-1820) of the Qing Dynasty.” Dai Haojun told the reporter all his ancestors could make shortcrust pastry. In 1958, his mother Gan Binglian by chance became an apprentice of Wan Jiuchang, the third-generation inheritor of shortcrust pastry, having since then started her career as a pastry artisan.

Growing up immersed in the craft, Dai Haojun developed a special affection for the rolled shortcrust pastry from his earliest years. “There’s a vivid childhood memory I hold dear, that is, the golden pastry emerging from the oven, its steam carrying irresistible aroma. I started learning the craft since childhood and after growing up decided to follow my mother in preserving this precious culinary heritage.” Dai Haojun claimed.

In 1992, Gan Binglian and Dai Haojun decided to specialize in the production of shortcrust pastry, and they officially registered the Pengshui County Daiji Food Factory. According to Dai, for decades his mother insists on using traditional handcrafting techniques, and the pastries she has made are tasty and crispy, both color and flavor leaving lasting joy to eaters.

Staying true to the original aspiration with a craftsman’s heart, in 2009 the production technique of Yushan’s rolled shortcrust pastry was included in the List of Chongqing’s Intangible Cultural Heritage, and Gan Binglian was recognized as the fourth-generation inheritor of this technique.

Innovating and Inheriting the Century-Old Flavor

Innovate through inheriting and evolve with innovation. With times changing and people’s tastes evolving, a variety of moon-cakes have emerged in the market, posing a threat to traditional shortcrust pastries. In Dai Haojun’s view, shortcrust pastry needs to innovate continuously; otherwise it might be phased out of the market.

To enhance the visibility of Yushan’s shortcrust pastry, Dai Haojun also promoted it at trade fairs in places like Shandong. “We will continue to innovate and develop, polish the traditional brand of the pastry, and help more people know about it and taste it,” said Dai.

In recent years, the government of Pengshui County has been making efforts to support the inheriting and development of local traditional crafts. Through institutes of intangible cultural heritage, the county has revitalized traditional techniques there and boosted rural cultural revitalization. This has given “crafts keepers” like Dai Haojun great confidence for the future. “We started with just a small workshop, but we now have not only built a new factory but also an institute of intangible cultural heritage and a production base, allowing more people to experience personally the joy of making shortcrust pastry. In the future, I will continue to preserve the craft of making rolled shortcrust pastry, just like my mother, and ensure for this traditional craft to be passed down and promoted.”

(This column is a Sino-Foreign Cultural Exchange Project jointly operated by The World & Chongqing and the College of International Studies, Southwest University.)

Photos/ The interviewee

By Liu Dingrui/The World and Chongqing